Fashion
Donatella defied the doubters – what’s next for her and Versace?
As Donatella Versace steps down from designing after 27 years at the helm of the Italian brand, the fashion world has been reflecting on her achievements and what this means for the future.
The 69-year-old took over the family business after her brother Gianni was murdered in 1997, with many unsure whether she had what it takes to steer the fashion house.
Her appointment was seen at the time as “a sentimental appointment by a shell-shocked family,” the Guardian’s fashion editor Jess Cartner-Morley wrote.
But she proved the doubters wrong, anointing herself in the process as a global fashion icon.
She leaves the job as “one of the most successful female designers in modern fashion history”, Cartner-Morley added.
New York Times fashion director Vanessa Friedman declared that Donatella “wore her struggles – with personal tragedy, self-doubt, finding her creative feet, and drugs – with as much aplomb as her long platinum hair”.
As singer and Versace ambassador Dua Lipa put it in a tribute on Instagram: “No-one does it like you @donatella_versace!!!!!”
She did it all with “grit, kindness and, even in the troughs of addiction, an infectious sense of humour”, the Telegraph’s head of fashion Lisa Armstrong wrote.
However, Versace “never set a fashion agenda” under Donatella as it had under her brother, Armstrong added – but her “nose for a story could nevertheless produce fashion magic”.
Her magic moments included dressing Jennifer Lopez in the green jungle dress at the 2000 Grammy Awards, generating so much interest that Google created its image search function.
As former Miu Miu design director Dario Vitale takes over, Donatella will now become an ambassador for the Versace brand.
The big question is what that means for both the company and Donatella herself, who has poured her life into the company, dealing with grief, drug addiction and divorce along the way?
Speculation is growing over whether the company will be sold to the Prada Group by its current owner Capri Holdings.
Capri paid €2bn (£1.67bn) for the fashion house in 2018 and owns other companies such as Michael Kors.
Prada has been credited with developing a strong vision in recent years, which has translated to healthy sales during a climate of slowdown in the fashion economy.
Imran Amed, CEO of The Business of Fashion, told the BBC World Service that “Versace is one of the most iconic brands in the fashion industry” and has “a very clear design and brand DNA”.
He believes it “would be a mistake to dilute” the company or merge it with another, so hopes that if Versace is bought, the vision is to grow it into something bigger.
Amed said Versace makes about $1bn (£772m) a year, while rivals such as Louis Vuitton and Gucci make $20bn (£15.5bn) and $8bn (£6.2bn) respectively.
Some have touted that Versace’s failure to expand into the beauty industry and other affordable luxuries is why it has been left behind financially by its rivals.
Friedman said Donatella had probably been thinking about her succession plan “for a while”.
“There’s a lot of turmoil in the luxury industry at large, and she may have decided it was time for a change,” she told the World Service’s Newshour.
Friedman called her replacement “a very talented designer”, adding: “He’s been working behind the scenes at Miu Miu for two years and it has been the single hottest brand in fashion over that time period.”
Vitale has helped steer the brand to record profits, which she said was “mind boggling” when “every other brand in the fashion world has declined during that period”.
Donatella defied the doubters – what’s next for her and Versace?
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